the Chiefs in and around the village of Ada Foah Ghana in 1976. The regional Ada people were one of many ethnic groups to maintain their heritage since colonial times in West Africa. This event was paramount to what I would guess to have been twenty-five area Chiefs. The initial day of arrival seemed to be timed that each group converged in a vast open field, segmented as in a territorial ground, as drums beat incessantly throughout the day. The formality of shielding the Chief from the sun 
had umbrellas marking the throne in each group. Part of each entourage would be a Ju Ju priest or witch doctor, multiple wives of the Chief, and confidantes unbeknown to me. Many a ‘Stool’ was carried. One Stool per chiefdom was sacred as it is said to possess the Soul of its people. Gold ornamentation adorned the Chiefs with rings, bracelets, and a few with crowns, giving acclaim to the colonial name of Ghana as Gold Coast. The royal robes of most Chiefs were Kente Cloth. In colorful geometric patterns, the hand-woven 
four-inch wide strips of Kente Cloth are sewn together for a majestic gown.The second day had the Chiefs atop a litter on the shoulders of cohorts for a grand parade. One held a human skull; some toted rifles, and most had a solemn look commanding respect. Their assembly of followers in their finest dress made a unified effort to represent their leader. Culminating at a parade ground equivalent to a football field, the Chiefs had their separate ‘executive suite’ areas. The drums played to the groups of women in matching outfits who marching around the field. There was some form of competition that I did not fathom but it went on for hours.
My somewhat dubious honor of being the only white man around left me open to the suspicions of an old Ju Ju priest, in particular. On the first day, he gave me a pointed stare-down. At the parade ground, he placed a spirited doll in front of me and proceeded to chant and dance with some intent to send evil forces my way. In my life since then, I have not succumbed to an apparition, at least from what I can tell.My comprehension of what took place during those festive days is very limited. I saw many splinter groups in separate gatherings but felt it was best to avoid intrusion.
1 comment:
The rituals of other cultures puts into perspective the importance, or perhaps unimportance, of rituals, or of anyone's rituals being necessarily right or wrong. Perhaps rather than hexing you, the man who seemed to be putting a curse on you was really paving your way to a more blessed life. Such misunderstanding may be the root cause of strife between the US and the radical muslims today, for instance. We may all simply have it wrong both ways!
Surely the dancing and pomp around you was to bless your place on this earth, since it seems you have lived a charmed life generally.
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